August 12, 2008

[雜記] 小吃雜記


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結束了一天連續兩道重要的會議,頂著因冷氣吹太多而發疼的頭、加上勞累又下垂無力的愛睏眼皮,總算騎車回到了距離宿舍只剩下最後一個紅燈前停了下來。

看著前方路口,今天的運氣算是不錯,還沒回到家就決定了要吃眼前那家過了馬路就會遇到的「阿忠古早麵」小店,現在改名了,從古早麵換成了現在的「鴨肉忠」,雖然還不知道為什麼而換了店名,不過今天好像適合吃吃它清淡口味的古早麵,沒什麼特別,不算少的幾根豆芽菜加上一片白切肉,當然還要有點油蔥浮揚在麵湯上頭,再有蔥花點綴個兩下,很簡單的口味。

綠燈,加快油門橫越馬路的同時,我一改原先要直接進去鴨肉忠填飽肚子的計畫,車頭一偏決定先騎到樓下,看看宋哥在不在,說不定就能一起吃,人多才好多點幾道小菜。

總算回到博士居樓下。停好車後先抬頭張望一下,看住最邊靠外面的宋哥房間裡頭黃燈是不是亮著,不知道什麼時候這已經是每天回到家樓下一定會有的習慣行為,
看樣子在家。

上樓一進門,果真馬上看見宋哥拎著個垃圾桶要出去倒,
雖然宋哥也算怪人一個,時常讓我感到難以理解,甚至有時候會忍不住發發他的牢騷,不過學校疲勞轟炸了一天剛回到家,就看見熟悉的老同學兼室友,也算是能夠稍稍調整一下委靡的精神,
我以像是剛打完一場硬仗回到軍營的硬漢,那種想要強裝戰場上什麼事也沒發生的語調說了聲:「走啊,吃飯了」

再來,第二次「走啊,吃飯了」是對著凱A房間說的,今天他也難得在家,而且還難得回過頭來問了說要吃些什麼。我們這裡一層共住了四個,而另外一個,則是我們三人研究所的學弟,一百八十公分的愛褲成癡,一如往常的還在公司加班。

我提出的「鴨肉忠」馬上就獲得了大家的賞識,凱A一向對晚餐的消費價格很敏感,如果是貴點的他就會婉轉的說要晚點再吃,如果是便宜點的,便比較容易得到正面的答案。而宋哥呢,剛已經說過了,他算是半個怪人,所以明明很會花錢,是個時尚達人,不過經常還是對我提出的午、晚餐地點發出異議,但是上回揪眼挑眉的挑釁說要不要去吃「爭鮮」吃到飽的人也是他,而且瞬間碟堆如山。

宋哥也算是很了解凱A容易在晚餐前臨陣退縮的個性,他一邊思量著待會去吃「鴨肉忠」要套哪件型男小背心,一邊對著房間對面的凱A說:「一起去啊,這樣你剛好可以去拿烘好的衣服」。

跟在宋哥的後面,我邊走邊對著前面的空氣揮出幾拳,一邊發出小學生的喊叫:「出發!出發!...」,自己腦袋裡頭總是能夠比較清醒觀察自己行為的那一塊對自己這樣子的突來的舉動雖說是小小的驚訝了一下,不過也還算能理解,畢竟累了一天以後難得湊齊了三個人要一起去吃晚麵,而且「鴨肉忠」的提議也很快的得到了大家的認可呢。

「鴨肉忠」就隱身在辛亥路跟泰順街的交叉口朝台大延伸過去的那一面,從博士居下樓轉個角一直走個大約八百公尺就能看到,極不起眼的小店,白天的時候你經過,很容易以為那只是一樓住戶所加蓋出來的停車場,仔細瞧瞧鐵門上頭才會發現兩個燈籠掛著,用不太標楷的標楷體寫著粗大的「鴨肉、古早麵」,直到下午三點開始營業,燈亮起來,你才會發現原來這裡有麵!

狹長的店面,就這樣沿著路邊斜個兒伸展到大約一台車再多一點的長度,裡頭只有大約兩張桌子也不到的寬度,像是老闆對開店沒什麼信心、也不覺得會開很久所以不想投資太多租金而隨意選擇的地點。店面的裝潢則是個隨時都可能因為總算發現生意沒有想像中好做而關門大吉了以後也不會有人發現的樣子,當然,落地玻璃門窗上頭也沒掛什麼厲害招牌,連「鴨肉忠」都只是三個大黑字徒手寫在紅紙上,貼在原本應該是「古早味...」的上頭,後面接著的「麵店」兩字則因為沒有做好防水,現在早就已經看不清楚字了。

雖然換了店名,但拉開門,裡頭還是老樣子,牆上一幅挺大張的馬匹奔騰的工筆畫,然後沒有任何價目表,連麵一碗多少也沒有寫。來了已經第三次的我,早就不覺得沒菜單有什麼奇怪,早已經歷過了打開門看見沒有價目表,望著老闆的臉不知道要說什麼的尷尬期,人家小吃店賣麵沒有價目表,連大小碗有沒有分都不知道,一般人總會尷尬的進了門之後楞個一陣。

我前後雖沒來吃過幾次,不過也早清楚這裡的重點,所以一進店裡,就向裡邊兒的透明食物櫃靠去,揪著眼往裡掃視了一遍。嗯,今天果然來的早,幾乎什麼小菜都還有剩:豬肝、三層肉、鯊魚湮...旁邊還多了幾條先前沒看到過的茄子裝在盤上,還有最裡邊那頭擺著一碗青綠色的東西,想了想看了看形狀,才想起那就是上回吃了印象深刻的醬醃生苦瓜,第一次吃的時候可真是津津有味,鹹鹹的醬汁裡頭還混著點甜味,苦瓜醃成青綠色,因為是生的,所以咬下去很脆很冰涼,苦味幾乎被冰涼的口感給蓋了過去,下了喉嚨,舌根後頭才會又感覺到一點兒苦瓜的苦,這個時候反而苦味又帶給人的是一種確定的感覺...「嗯,果然還是苦瓜呢」。每每就在不斷地重複確認的過程底下,一塊又接著一塊的放進嘴裡去,很快的一小盤醬醃生苦瓜就見底了。上兩回來店來得太晚都吃不到,頭一次也只吃到一點點,總算這回看來還剩下不少,可以好好品嚐一下嘞。

不只是苦瓜,凱A跟宋哥上回被我帶來也是對這老闆的小菜讚不絕口,我還記得上回除了三層肉跟豬肝都讓人不禁豎指稱讚以外,真正的冠軍則是後來的一盤「柴魚韭菜」,新鮮的韭菜切成短短的,只留下根部,累積一定數量堆疊起來之後,在上頭撒了柴魚片,最後淋點醬油就這樣上桌,老闆說要請客,我看了傻眼,說從來沒看過有人這樣吃韭菜。當時不愧是人間Google的宋哥,馬上便得意的說「這你沒吃過?這很常見啊!」 看來台灣雖小,不過從小生長在台北的我,和台中孩子宋哥多少在這「吃」的經歷上有些差異。

「鴨肉忠」的美味小菜並不是盤盤都切了準備好,而是都還保留在食材的狀態,被放在類似日本料理店裡,一定會有的,擺放食材給客人觀看的那種玻璃食物櫃裡頭。

往圓弧面的玻璃櫃裡掃視了一遍之後,我當然毫不考慮的就決定要先點青苦瓜,不過稍後馬上又興起了是不是要點個肉的念頭,不過嘴巴在這種時候總是會在大腦還沒下定論之前就先聲奪人了,也許與吃有關的東西畢竟離嘴巴比較近,腦子就勢微了。在我點了苦瓜以後,小宋則是一邊率性的走向座位;一邊頭也不回的向老闆那邊說他要加點一份茄子。

小宋是個會覺得在朋友面前吃下多人不敢吃的食物是很帥的行為的人,大部分時候他還會在一邊吃的時候一邊問我不知道已經問過多少遍的問題說:「大寶你吃不吃茄子?」 等我回說吃啊,他一定就會老樣子睜大眼睛說:「不是一般人都不敢吃嗎? 可是明明茄子就是好物!」 接著就是夾一大塊往嘴裡送,露出好吃的表情睜著雙眼對我笑,一副得意的樣子,偶爾還會一隻手大拇指頂一下用力比個"讚"的手勢。有時候,劇情的先後順序則是反過來的,不過大意沒有變,例如,當發現了有青椒在他的盤子裡,便往上一夾,眼睛一亮好像印地安納瓊斯在叢林裡發現了寶物了一樣:「青椒!!」張嘴送了進去以後一邊咀嚼一邊又說:「青椒是我的最愛!」,然後如果看我沒反應,還會再補個兩句例如:「是不是有人不敢吃青椒?」「真搞不懂為什麼有人不敢吃青椒。」之類的。我決定哪一天應該要把筷子放下替他拍拍手,向隔壁桌介紹說:「看啊,這是傳說中不怕任何恐怖食物的勇士,是我的室友呢!」。

在我點了苦瓜,小宋帥氣的點了茄子之後,凱A就比較為難了,明明很晚才吃過午晚餐,只不過為了烘衣機裡頭的衣服還有室友們的盛情難卻才跟過來,原本只想吃碗三十五元的古早麵就打道回府的,這下子大家一人點了一道小菜,他不也點一道,光吃別人點的那多不好意思。直到我跟著還在為了自己放聲點了「茄子!」而感到沾沾自喜的宋哥後面也坐定位了以後,還是看見凱A在食材櫃前面問指指點點的問老闆這一道六十那那一道要多少。

凱A最後還是讓理財的頭腦戰勝了難為情的心,只跟老闆說了麵要換成冬粉以後,就摸摸鼻子過來坐下。我跟小宋抱怨了一下這樣子我們這餐小菜都沒有肉耶,宋哥馬上著了我的道,說:「那不然再來個三層肉吧,我請客!」,打蛇隨棍上,我馬上說:「啀,點鴨肉喇,人家都改名鴨肉忠了當然要點個鴨肉來嚐嚐,還沒吃過呢。」小宋哪知道我剛剛早就對玻璃櫃上七斜八躺裝著的幾塊鴨肉起了興趣。
老闆聽了呵呵笑了兩聲:「唷,行家喔,聰明。」
我見小宋還沒什麼反應,馬上又補了句:「鴨肉我們兩個平分,凱A不用出但是一起吃喇」。就這樣,我們今天晚的菜色便除了苦瓜、茄子之外,又多了盤鴨肉。

苦瓜最早被拿過來,老闆請我們先一邊吃,他再一邊趕快煮麵。我朝著苦瓜比了一下手勢請宋哥他們先品嚐,凱A向來走的是實話實說的路線,所以東西好不好吃看他的表情就最清楚。如果先是細細咀嚼一下,然後快速的睜大眼睛,那就表示好吃。這道苦瓜達到了細細咀嚼的部份,不過還沒有獲得讓睜大眼睛的殊榮。雖然沒有睜大眼睛,不過凱A還是將注意力集中到了盛放苦瓜的小菜碟上面,「這什麼?」 凱A說著用筷子戳了戳盤裡還沒吃完的苦瓜上頭,一粒一粒綠色的小果子,說完就又自問自答說:「好像是...破布子」 我聽了馬上想到前幾天新聞說某個婦人因為吃太多破布子害得她胃裡頭結了個跟棒球差不多大的石頭,當時我看著新聞拍出來的破布子圖片,還真是摸不清楚那是什麼東西,這下子才知道原來就是讓這道苦瓜格外美味的秘密。聽我說了第一次了解破布子是什麼之後,人間Google-宋哥馬上開了尊口又說:「這你不知道啊?客家菜很常用啊,通常是都醃過了會拿來煮東西。」 宋哥是客家人,所以也難怪很能夠操自己。他最有名的操自己的自虐故事,就是我們一起念研究所時,他拿了老師的國科會專案回家做,熬了大半夜然後明知道有食道逆流的問題還喝了一大「碗」的咖啡提神,果真不一會兒食道逆流衝到廁所跪在馬桶前嘔吐,吐聲大作地把當時也是室友的凱A吵到醒過來,據說吐完了然後又像是什麼事也沒發生一樣的回去繼續工作,當然,這故事就是由那個被吐聲驚醒的凱A所轉述給我聽的。

我跟宋哥的古早麵總算在苦瓜還沒吃完之前就來了,肚子很餓嘴很饞,眼睛一定就是最被麵湯上頭一片薄薄的肉片給吸引住,薄薄的肉片因為熱湯的關係,油脂比較少的瘦肉那端微微地蜷曲,看起來又更加吸引人,圓圓黃黃的麵條跟之前一樣是用油麵去下的,其他的豆芽菜、漂浮的油蔥、細蔥蒜末一樣也沒少,倒是湯頭換了,從以大骨為主熬成的白湯變成了以醬油為主的深色湯汁,嚐了一口,味道不差,只不過跟之前的白湯相比起來,用醬油提味總覺得少了點用心,也許老闆感受不到大家欣賞他的湯頭,才又換成比較簡單的醬油口味吧。

我肚子餓了,馬上窸哩窣嚕的吸了幾口麵,然後一邊跟比較少聊到天的凱A聊了聊少數他有興趣的嘻哈話題,他提到的五個嘻哈明星就有三個我不認識,果然隔行如隔山,聽音樂也是一樣,哪種類型不聽就是那種類型的東西什麼都聽不懂。聊了個一會,麵被我吃了個四五成剩下一半左右,我開始抱怨怎麼其他的小菜還沒送來。

隔著桌子看老闆好像東一下轉身,西一下切切丁,怎麼卻沒看見哪到小菜要被送過來樣子,我便開始有點失去耐心的小聲抱怨了起來。老闆也許是聽見了我自以為不會讓他聽到的抱怨,總算走出料理的地方,端著一盤小菜出來了。

是宋哥剛剛點的那盤茄子。

如果這時候有哪個導演拿著攝影機在一旁拍攝,一定會捕捉到這個滑稽無比的畫面,三個人同時伸長脖子帶著疑惑的表情盯著擺在方盤子上的涼拌茄子,幾條茄子無辜地打橫躺在一起,讓我們皺眉瞪眼的不是茄子,而是茄子上面的幾種色澤不一的碎料,底下淌著淡淡的一層薄醬油。三個人像是約好了一樣默默伸出筷子向已經切好的茄子各夾了一小段,張嘴吞了進去。
出人意料的美味讓我們三人再度像是約好了的一般各自發出遇到了美食而特有的表情,凱A當然就是咕唔了一聲後睜大了眼睛看著茄子,小宋則是想要讓全世界都知道他發現了美味一樣大大的喔了一聲看看我們兩人,而我呢,當然是快人快語地看著茄子做下了結論:「這個好吃。」
三個人爭先伸長了筷子再夾一塊放進嘴裡,才開始仔細分析這盤茄子的妙處,原來重點除了冰櫃所帶來的清涼,還有新鮮茄子所特有的香味與綿密肉質以外,上面撒著的細碎配料各自發揮了重要的影響,幾片切碎的蒜片和蔥花和著醬油搭配的天衣無縫,帶來的是中式小菜必定要有的傳統味道,而我剛剛不小心瞥見老闆從食材櫃裡拿了半顆新鮮蕃茄,原來成了茄子上頭的紅丁,切成丁的紅蕃茄讓原本可能有點黏膩的茄子味道變得清爽許多,凱A的筷子正在撥弄著茄子上面細小的香料,黏了一片到嘴巴裡嚐過以後他才恍然大悟地說:「是九層塔。」,也許就是九層塔切碎之後帶來的香味,讓這道涼拌茄子不僅保有了道地台灣小菜的味覺之外,還多了點西方料理的多層次的口感。

我們三人就這樣很有次序的一再伸筷將新的茄子一塊快遞送入嘴中。很快的,最後一塊茄子成了宋哥嘴中的食物同時,我們忍不住向老闆盛讚這道意料之外的美味,老闆低頭切著待會要上桌的鴨肉,邊笑著說不錯吼不錯吼。宋哥連「很像法國料理」的讚美都出籠了,讓老闆忍不住笑意,跺著鴨肉的手好像更起勁了。用不了多久,一盤鴨肉就盛了上來。

隨鴨肉送上的是一盤小小的辣椒醬油,切好的鴨肉泛著點因為多汁而帶起的閃亮光點,發亮的茶褐色薄皮上一粒粒細小的突起,讓大腦很快就回憶起肉汁的美味和咀嚼帶皮鴨肉的快感,舌頭禁不住開始分泌唾液。夾了幾許旁邊的薑絲放在鴨肉上,沾點醬往嘴裡送,飽滿的肉汁一如先前的想像從鴨肉與牙齒的互動之間湧出,雖然不及方才那道"法國茄子"那樣令人驚訝,不過這鴨肉的新鮮多汁以及的入味的程度,也算是不愧鴨肉忠選了它作店名。

鴨肉消耗的速度雖比不上涼拌茄子還有苦瓜,但也沒慢上多少,雖然份量算多,不過還是轉眼間就被三個已經被美食挑起味蕾的青壯男子給解決完畢。

看著空掉的三盤小菜,我們總算滿足的回過頭來,打算把刻意控制吃慢一點的湯麵給結束掉,這時候老闆卻從櫃台問了我們說:「夠不夠啊? 吃不吃得下再一條魚? 這邊這魚拿給你們吃吧,反正東西也都賣得差不多了。」三個少年難得持續勃起著的不是下半身,而是舌尖上的味蕾,哪會放過這個老闆要請客的大好機會,雖然總是擔心老闆會因為店的位置太奇怪,不認真擺設,又太愛請客人吃東西、經營不善而關門大吉,但我們還是輪番嘟噥了幾句客氣話以後,接受了老闆的好意。

老闆沒等我們說好就已經拿了湯匙往玻璃櫃上放著煮好魚肉的方鐵盤裡撈了起來,如果我沒記錯的話,應該就是我一開始掃視玻璃櫃上的鴨肉時就注意到的,鴨旁邊的那一盤魚肚肉,想著那醬汁的深黑褐色已經成功的著上魚皮,想必已經入味十分。

滲入了醬汁的褐灰色魚皮、鵝白色魚肚,轉眼間已經放上桌。我們三人的筷子很快便無情的戳進了原本緊張著的薄皮下挾著肉,一陣攪弄之後,每個人的筷子都成功的同時夾上了魚皮還有魚肉,新鮮的雪白魚肉朝下,在醬汁上面左右滑個兩下,將邊緣帶著醬色的魚連皮帶肉地送進嘴裡,甘甜的醬汁,緊緻的魚肉,入味的魚皮,像我這樣運氣好還夾上一點肚皮脂肪的,就能在舌尖上感受到隨著口中咀嚼的動作,一再地被嚼進魚肉組織間的油脂的美味。

這時候,小宋說出一句大家都不由得認同的話:「這魚沒有拿來配酒怎麼行!?」

凱A呵呵的笑著一邊嚼著嘴一邊表示認同,對啤酒這種東西完全沒有特殊偏好的我,也忍不住馬上點了點頭表示同意,小宋的積極衝動在這個時候總算獲得全體認同,從冰著啤酒的冰櫃那邊拎了瓶台灣啤酒還有三個小酒杯回來,這杯子當然就是你在全台灣同樣類似的傳統小店裡都會看到的,恰好拇指與食指圈起來一扣,手掌剛巧可以握住整個杯身;熱炒店裡划拳的大叔們通常一口飲盡的那樣大小,真可以說是台灣人喝啤酒專用的杯子,台灣啤酒就是要用這樣台灣啤酒杯才對原味嘛。 為了表示連很少喝酒的我都認同這酒來的正是時候,我將已經開了瓶的啤酒接過來幫宋哥他們倒進杯子裡。這金黃色的飲料今後不知道還會不會再像現在一樣,感覺這麼樣的適時適地,但我知道這種感覺未曾有過,看著眼前還勝著大半塊的魚肉,我第一次這麼熱切的想要舉起我的啤酒杯,在聽到撞擊一聲清脆的玻璃撞擊之後,像是要讓先前那塊還未有酒便急著吞下的魚肉能在下肚之前有酒陪伴。當然普渡了剛下肚的那一塊,馬上還得再喝上一口,然後迅速的補進一塊新才對的起自己...

這麼樣在心裡規劃著手中這杯金黃的啤酒要怎麼樣才對得起方才入口以及桌上的那盤魚肉,乾了杯,頭一仰,冰涼的啤酒瞬間衝進口中,從舌尖、頰壁、舌根、喉頭一路混合著方才魚肉和醬汁沿途所留下的鮮美甘甜的寂寞滑下肚裡。

也許是那種冰涼啤酒混搭著寂寞的感覺太過特別,也許是這一道道小菜竟然如此完美的相偕演出,也可能是有好友相陪,我開始注意到店外的景色,竟然是這麼樣美麗。帶著小孩正要回家的上班族、騎著腳踏車經過的學生、散步的老夫婦,辛亥路上等著綠燈正要通過的車燈和著交通號誌還有城市街景一同暈散開來,透過鴨肉的玻璃窗映入我的眼簾。

那個時候的我,想的是台灣怎麼會這樣可愛,台北怎麼可以如此美麗,與好友共享啤酒小菜的經驗怎會能夠如此美好,若哪天真的如同自己心中所以為的要離開台灣好長一段時間,我要怎麼樣才能夠拋棄這些,遺忘掉這個畫面?

所以現在的我,無論要花上去多少淺拙的文字來描述多麼冗長而瑣碎的細節,花掉多少時間來用力雕琢著自己不擅長的飲食經驗,也要寫出一段能夠讓自己不論何時何地或是不論過了多久,都能喚起當時記憶的文章,一段曾經讓我感動莫名的普通回憶。










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